Ukranian designer Lilia Litkovskaya continued to experiment with form for spring, creating abstract, cleverly constructed silhouettes that mixed romantic inspirations from nature — the ruffles and cuts of the pieces were meant to resemble flower petals — with more modernist lines and references, including Keith Haring art.
The look: Minimalist staples made more interesting with large drapes, circular sleeves or subtle cutouts that highlighted the designer’s flair for a more “hidden sensuality over straightforward sexuality.”
Quote of note: “We are always into experiments with forms and silhouettes and this time the goal was to turn the whole collection into a macro silhouette of a flower with each dress as a single petal. Another seasonal experiment has been to combine weightless fabrics with heavy, rigid accessories,” said the designer, who presented her spring 2022 range via a short film, featuring a group of models walking across a vast, deserted landscape.
Key pieces: Draped perforated cotton shirtdresses; cool denim separates featuring frayed edges and exaggerated folds, and androgynous outerwear created using upcycled men’s shirts.
Takeaway: Litkovskaya has managed to strike a balance between her flair for experimenting with construction and creating fuss-free pieces that can fit into women’s everyday wardrobes. But in order to reach its full commercial potential in such a saturated market, the label will need to flex its storytelling muscles further and create a stronger narrative around its elegant clothing and the women who wear it.
By: Natalie Theodosi
