Don’t we all just want to forget about our troubles?
Ulla Johnson delivered that moment of zen Wednesday morning at the Brooklyn Botanic Garden with an outdoor runway set around an impressive fountain of flowers. Not even the buzzing drone camera overhead could break the spell.
“This is one of my favorite places in New York, I live not far from here…it was a bit of an oasis for me during this last chapter because they were open and not many people were here,” Johnson said of the intimate-feeling garden that certainly made one want to stay awhile.
Intimacy was the key word for the season. Even as Johnson’s business continues to grow (she just announced plans for her first Los Angeles store, and launched a beauty collaboration with Bobbi Brown), this collection communicated that she still will still be there for her customers, to tend to them as it were, with an ever-expanding offering for every COVID-19-era mood.
The lineup had all the exuberant feminine shapes, ruffles and craftsy details she is known for, a palette of both hot and soft colors, and batiks, ikats and cowrie shell embroideries galore.
The marigold, single-sleeve poplin top and patchwork cascade pencil skirt that opened the show was a ray of sunshine if ever there was one, and the more forgiving simple bustier sundress in hand-dyed indigo shibori really let the special, Made in India textile shine. (The fabric arrived just in the nick of time, she said.) Bra tops, bustier minidresses and off-shoulder maxidresses also spoke to happy days — and parties — to come. (Let’s hope.)
But the big news was the new sense of ease in the simpler, layered silhouettes.
A billowy embroidered ivory poplin tunic and wide-legged pants with a quilted vest over top and an olive crepe de chine pleated dress worn open over matching wide-leg pants were both pleasingly relaxed (and WFH-ready), while garment-washed utility anoraks and pants, printed denim and cotton drill tailoring opened up a world of more everyday dressing for the brand. Touches of madras, crochet lace collars, braided raffia sandals and bulbous leather bags, added rich tactility.
“I wanted to tell this story about pauses, the chaos and cacophony and wild feelings and these oases,” said Johnson, speaking about the weird times.
Revealing and protecting, ready to party, curl up in a ball, or both.…As the designer said, “We’re all holding our breath.”
By: boothmoore6196
